Les Voorhis of Spearfish spotted this shorebird near Bear Butte last week. Females, like the one above, tend to be 25% bigger than males, and more brilliantly colored. Although phalaropes are shorebirds, they rarely swim.

Here's The Investment You've Been Looking For!



Eager to own your own South Dakota ranch? Just like grandpa, you put down a little money. You watch your expenses. You do everything yourself ... fix the tractor, ride the fences, clean the dugouts, deliver the backwards baby calves. You keep all the heifer calves and you butcher and eat the occasional sick old cow that won't breed back and you sell the healthy steer calves to pay your taxes. It's a great life.

Well, a Meade County ranch on the Cheyenne River just came on the market from OEI Properties. . Eighteen hundred acres. It has been owned by a Georgia corporation, so they kept good books. The income is reported at just $4,500 per year from the farm/ranch operation and ... here's an unexpected bonus ... another $2,500 or so from the state GF&P for game food plots. Yeah, we know, it's taxpayers money and it reeks of big government but you gotta' swallow your pride to clothe the kids.

So the income is $6,700 a year. If you don't spend anything and you raise a good garden, then you can afford the taxes .... a whopping $2,400 a year. Honestly, you can make a little more on the farming side because the corporate honchos were possibly more interested in deer and turkey habitat than grass for the cows.

Still, to get into this sweet little deal, you've got to scrounge up $1,950,000 for a grubstake. I don't think the local bank's going to help you because we're talking about $1,000 an acre and we figure you can only run about one cow per 20 acres at best so that's $20,000 per cow and the 90 cows will each have about .9 calves a year so that's 81 calves and you'll get about $500 per calf in November at St. Onge Livestock (maybe a little more if we can keep the Canadian border closed, but again that's big government) so that's about $40,500 a year and your interest on the $1,950,000 will be about $195,000 and you'll be about $150,000 short just on the interest payment. We could do a better assessment if we had a bar napkin instead of this keyboard.

So we're not saying it's a slam dunk deal. Be sure to check the fences. New cedar posts can run $9 each.

This week we've devoted the web site to summer travel tips. Today the subject is favorite small events. South Dakotans smart enough to drive a car should know about the Brookings Arts Festival, Yankton's Riverboat Days, the State Fair in Huron, the Sturgis Rally, the Corn Palace Festival and our other big-time events. But there are some smaller events that don't yet have the ad budgets and prestige, and perhaps are too far removed from the media markets, to get much notice. Here's a few of our little-known favorites. There are many more. Check our Trail Guide in the magazine for several pages of fun events.



Oscar Micheaux Festival in Gregory: We've mentioned this before on the website. Micheaux was a black homesteader in South Dakota who became America's first successful black film maker. Gregory celebrates his art every summer (Aug. 11-13 this year) with a film festival and several days of films, speeches, food and music.

Gayville Hall: Wakonda filmmakers Doug and Judi Sharples bought Gayville's defunct grocery store and converted it to a music hall. Several Saturday nights a month they bring in top quality regional musicians. Gayville is mid-way between Yankton and Vermillion on Hwy 50. Call 267-2859 for schedules.

Fort Sisseton Historical Festival: Way up north near little Lake City sits this old cavalry fort that is now part of the state parks system. On June 4-5 the local folks stage a Ft. Sisseton Historicdal Festival with a fur trade rendezvous, music, rodeo, camping, and a 19th century military encampment. Call 448-5701 for info.

Crystal Springs Rodeo: This rodeo has been held on a ranch in a natural bowl near Clear Lake for 60 years. You sit on the hillside (bring a blanket or lawn chair) and watch the action. The Weisel family ran it for years; now the community gets together to help. Minnesotans have discovered it and love the event. South Dakotans somehow haven't caught up to it yet. Call 874-2204. This year the rodeo is June 24-26.

Czech Days in Tabor: Some of the craziest days of our lives have happened here, where until very recently they still passed out free beer in the parade route. I think they stopped that, but there's no beer shortage, nor a lack of kolaches, roast beef, sauerkraut, etc. You'll be tapping your feet to "You Are My Sunshine" for weeks afterwards. This year's event is June 17-18. Call 463-2476 for info.

Vinegar Festival in Roslyn: This little town also has the International Vinegar Museum, so the festival befits it. Vinegar tasting, entertainment, foods, etc. We haven't been there but those who have say it's fun. This year it's June 18 (a busy weekend!). Call 486-4536.

Midsummer Festival, near Vermillion: Truly one of our state's greatest little events. For 136 years, the congregation of Dalesburg Lutheran Church, about 10 miles north of Vermillion, has hosted the festival. It includes Scandinavian foods, crafts, music, games and dancing. It is delightful, very uncommercial and family oriented. A cultural treasure for our state. This year, June 24. Call 253-2575 for tickets and info.



We've focused only on events coming this summer. And admittedly we probably are better acquainted with the southeast's events ... so help us out. What did we miss in your area? Comment below.

We're offering summer travel tips on the blog this week. Today the topic is eateries. You don't need to be reminded of the Cattleman's Club in Pierre, or Minerva's in Sioux Falls, or the Firehouse Brewing Co. in Rapid City. But there are dozens of lesser known places that have wonderful atmosphere and food that you may not have stumbled on yet.



T-34 Cafe, West River: West River. How else can we describe it? It's on Highway 34, about 69 miles west of Pierre. Run by ranchers Gordon and Trudy Fleshner, they make almost everything from scratch, including great hash browns. The dining room overlooks the western plains. This is solid ranch food served by real Westerners in true ranch country. Nothing fake.

Buffalo Lake Restaurant: It's run by Mabel Almos. And we mean it. She's in charge. Six days a week. It used to be seven but now she loafs on Sunday and does the lawn and landscaping. Tuesdays are pancake nite. Friday is fish fry. The restaurant was on the shore of Buffalo Lake but when the tribal gov't raised the rent in '88, she and her husband, Charlie, decided to raise the restaurant on wheels and move it closer to Highway 10, about 10 miles west of Sisseton.

Hunan's Chinese Restaurant: Robert Wong and his family work very hard to create what we figure is South Dakota's best Chinese restaurant. It's at 1720 Mt. Rushmore Road in Rapid City. And here's a twist. Wong works at the restaurant all day every day for 51 weeks a year. His wife lets him grab his camera and leave for a week to shoot wildlife photos. And he is regularly ranked among the world's top wildlife photographers (and the other leaders don't run restaurants).

Mono Lisi's in Vermillion: You wouldn't expect a college town to have a top notch Italian restaurant, but Coyote fans are lucky. This is as good as you'll find and the prices are very reasonable. Everything's good ... the pasta, the salmon, the lasagna, the meatballs ... Mama Mia!

Old Bowdle Hospital Inn: Two young women converted Bowdle's charming, old hospital into an inn. They serve three meals a day, specializing in home cooking. They make their own breads, carve their own steaks and whip up famous chef salads. Bowdle is west of Aberdeen on Highway 12.

Charlie's Pizza, Yankton: Buried in a residential area in west Yankton (near the hospital), it even takes some newcomers to the River City to figure out this treasure. It's not a high profile business ... but it hasn't had to be over the last 40 years because they truly have a secret recipe that keeps the regulars coming. The decor has been '50s almost since the '50s. Order the "Works" and then put a dollar in the old jukebox.

Whiffer's Sandwiches, Sioux Falls: Hands down the best sandwiches in the Midwest in the strangest building (1133 No. Minnesota Ave.), run by a delightful and sparkling lady who loves what she does.

Nick's Hamburgers, Brookings: If your cholesterol is under control, go here for cheap, tasty deep-fat fried hamburgers. The owner can be a grouch now and then, and they don't have french fries, but no place is perfect. Hard-working young fellows buy them by the sackful for lunch, and the local banker indulges in one every Saturday morning.

Corn Exchange, Rapid City: As far as you can get from Nick's and still be in South Dakota. Rated the best restaurant in five states by the Chef Moz Dining Guide. Fine dining at 727 Main downtown. An intimate experience. Try the butterscotch pots de creme for dessert.

Tell us what we missed .... hit "comments".

Soldierwoman Art Gallery in Mission, S.D.

Continuing our week-long theme of sharing travel tips, today we're offering some unique places to browse and shop in South Dakota towns and cities.

Downtown Sioux Falls: Not long ago, our biggest city's downtown district was an embarrassment. Now it's attracting young people who shop, dine, party and even live on Phillips Avenue and its surrounds. Shops like the Bead Co., Food & Fermentation, Zandbroz, The Book Store, the Great Outdoors Shop, Minerva's, Mrs. Murphy's Irish Gifts, Rehfeld's, Touch of Europe, Home Porch and others make it as eclectic and cool as anyplace in the Upper Midwest. We weren't going to mention names, but the names give a hint of the atmosphere.

Pierre Street Emporium: This wonderful little shop in downtown Pierre has quickly become everybody's favorite. Doris Heisinger, the proprietor, and her friends and staff do an amazing job of collecting and marketing Dakota-made foods, art and gift products. They have a small gallery, so there's usually photos or paintings featured. You can find a gift for anyone here.

Prairie Edge: This is the mall version of the Pierre Street Emporium. You could spend a half day or more browsing the art, literature, music and other stock. Located in downtown Rapid City, the store has become the leading advocate of Northern Plains art and sculpture.

Christmas Store in Garretson: We always thought it seemed really stupid to go to a Christmas store in the summer ... until we went. It's a neat place anytime. And Garretson is a cute little city with some other interesting shops. It's just north of Sioux Falls.

Edgar's in Elk Point: Nothing special about Edgar's. Just your usual little pharmacy. Unless you like ice cream. They are the Midwest's leader in crazy ice cream. We've had potato chip malts there, and other wacky but wonderful treats. On I-29 in the southeast corner.

Hutterite Colonies: Many of East River South Dakota's Hutterite Colonies sell various food and craft products. They colonies are scattered up the James River valley from Yankton to the Sisseton area. Ask local Chambers of Commerce for tips on those nearest you. Some have scheduled open houses, like the Old Elm Colony near Bridgewater, where families specialize on homemade noodles, meat pies, jams, jellies and baked goods.

Chamberlain-Oacoma: Most of us zip past this spot on I-90 and marvel at the beauty of the Missouri River valley, but have you really, really stopped to take a look. Maybe you've seen Al's Oasis and the 5-cent coffee, but next trip explore the two cities. Chamberlain has a number of shops and stores worth a visit, not the least of which is Casey's Drug & Jewelry which has good food, interesting gift items, etc. Chamberlain is a sleeper city; it doesn't brag a lot but maybe it should.

Wall Drug: I've never stepped foot in Yankton's Wal-mart, and won't unless someone I love is dying and they have the only pills that would save the life. Wall Drug on the other hand is one of my favorite stores. People underestimate it as a shopping place. It's more than a tourist knick-knack place. They have an amazingly good photo store, a real pharmacy, great cheap chocolate doughnuts that we got free when the founder Ted was alive but we're happy to pay for today, bull whips, saddles, a huge collection of hats, literature, art, clothing ... and if I go on any more I'm going to send the Husteads a bill for advertising.

Naper's Emporium in Gregory: In between all the good work he does for his hometown and the South Dakota Humanities Council, Richard Papousek somehow finds time to operate this cute, historic gift shop on Gregory's main street. Candy, coffee, antiques, junk, oddities .... you'll buy something for sure. An outhouse museum is behind the shop.

The Creamery in Platte: Marcus and Diane King, retired grocers, spearheaded an effort to buy the old creamery building on main street. Then they converted it to a retail store for regional artists. It is full of funky, western, and metal art. The Kings and friends also restored the old theater across the street and reopened it for movies, dinner theater and meetings. The theater has an ice cream parlor in the front lobby. Tempting enough?

Soldierwoman Art Gallery near Mission: Linda Szabo and her husband, renowned silversmith Paul Szabo, run this fine little art and gift gallery on the Rosebud Reservation. It's a mile south of the junction of Hwys 18 and 87. Beautiful native art priced fairly and sold by nice people.

Tell us what we missed.....

We are continuing our week-long offering of unique travel opportunities in S.D. Today we're suggesting some places where you can mingle with crowds. What did we miss? Add your own suggestions by hitting "comments" below.


(Rich Murphy photo)

Attend a cattle auction: Summers are usually a slower time at cattle auctions, but with prices at record highs they may be busier than usual. Find one with a restaurant because ranchers know good beef ... to run a rancher's restaurant you gotta' have the best. Our favorites our St. Onge on the edge of the Hills by Spearfish, Presho on Interstate 90 and Martin, between the Pine Ridge and Rosebud Reservations on Highway 18. But there are many more. You really ought to attend a cattle auction in November when the big ranches are selling their summer calves and the barns are bursting with money and excitement.

Sioux Falls Farmers Market: The city of Sioux Falls, thanks to all our sales tax dollars and some mayoral budget-stretching, has spent millions on the Falls Park and surrounding area so make this the year you attend the popular Sioux Falls Farmers Market on Saturday mornings. A new restaurant has been opened (thanks to city dollars) in an old quartzite building and the horse barn has been converted to an artists' gallery and workshop.

A small town pow wow: You wouldn't order chicken at a cattle auction barn, we hope, so don't go to a Norwegian town for a pow wow. Find an authentic pow wow on one of our nine reservations; you'll be a minority for once in your life in S.D., and you'll enjoy the experience.

A real county fair: How long since you've attended a real county fair? Not many are left with much zing in South Dakota, to be honest. But the best are Turner County (Parker), southwest of Sioux Falls, and Brown County (Aberdeen). Our state fair is on the comeback trail too after much mismanagement in the 1990s. But there's something about a county fair that's quite charming. There are some other smaller ones worth going to as well but Parker and Aberdeen know how to do it. I think attendance is still free both places, too.

The beach by Yankton: You can find solitary spots around Lewis & Clark Lake, west of Yankton if that's what you prefer .... but if you like crowds in bathing suits go to Midway Beach, Gavins Point and Canary. Midway is the busiest but all three are cool ways to spend a summer day. Lewis & Clark has lots of amenities ... boat rentals, restaurants, antique shops, etc., and you're only a few minutes from Yankton. Highway 52 (the road to Yankton) is under construction this summer but it will remain open.

Sculpture Strolls: Who'd have thought it? Now you can stroll the downtowns of our two big cities and enjoy outdoor art. Rapid City led the way with much outdoor sculpture. They began with Dinosaur Park on a hill atop the city; most recently the city began a Presidential collection ... lifesize busts of all the presidents will eventually be on street corners. It blends with the Rushmore presidents, of course, which are just miles down Highway 16. In Sioux Falls, a Sculpture Walk was started last year with about 30 top notch pieces of art by various sculptors. This summer there will be 46 on display on Phillips Avenue in the heart of downtown. Both cities (light years ahead of the rest of the state here) have some outdoor tables for dining and refreshments. Most South Dakota cities seem to prefer empty streets to happy people enjoying the sun with their sandwich and Schlitz.

We're going to spend this week in May offering some travel tips on out-of-the way things to see and do in South Dakota. Today we'll suggest some places to find real solitude. Add your own tips to fellow readers.

Whispering Pines of Terry Peak: Get atop any of the Black Hills mountains, shut the engine off, leave your I-Pod in the car and walk under the pines, 7,000 feet above sea level. You'll hear a beautiful whisper. Any mountain will do, but one of the easiest to drive atop is Terry Peak (there's a regular road.)

Sheep Mountain Table: Just south of Scenic, Sheep Mountain is on the fringe of the badlands. A dirt/gravel road leads to the top and a hauntingly beautiful and unspoiled view. A single mom and her kids homesteaded there in the 1930s because all the land below was spoken for. Nobody thought you could raise anything on Sheep Mt., but they found it a very fertile place and did well. When her husband returned to share the land she threw him off, so the story goes.

Our Glacial Lakes: We've found that a lot of people who live in the southern and western parts of our state have not discovered the wonderful Glacial Lakes of the northeast.They are magnificent and so unspoiled. Minnesota has nothing on us when it comes to lakes. Plus our lakes have wonderful Indian legends .... like Punished Woman Lake at South Shore, named after a warrior and his lover who enraged a jealous chief and paid the price.

Stroppel Hotel in Midland: Normally we wouldn't send you to town for solitude, but this town has just 200 people and one bar. The hotel is really a quaint B&B run for decades by George Stroppel, a kind, elderly masseuse with huge hands. You can soak in hot mineral baths and be far from the rat race of life.

Climb the Campanile: Yes, climb the 180 steps to the top of SDSU's bell tower. If it's locked, get a key from the alumni office across the street. You'll love your solitary view of the city and prairie. And after all those steps, you can afford the calories of an SDSU ice cream cone.

Bald Eagle Watching: Bird watching is quietly becoming a big deal in S.D., and what could be more fun than sharing space with America's symbol. Eagles like solitude as much as you, so when you find them you've found it. An excellent place is around the giant cottonwoods of Fort Randall by Pickstown in southcentral S.D.

Climb The Nicolett Tower: Joseph Nicollet was a French explorer who fell in love with South Dakota before it was South Dakota. He was especially enthralled with a panoramic view from a hillside west of present-day Sisseton when he was there in 1839. Sisseton banker Harold Torness loved those same hills, and he spearheaded an effort to build a 96-step tower in the 1990s. A visitor's center is at the base. But the solitude is up in the sky.

Drive Hwy 1806: You can find solitude on a lot of South Dakota roads, but the stretch of 1806 from Fort Pierre to Lower Brule (which conveniently connects to Reliance on I-90) winds along the Missouri River, through unspoiled country with much wildlife, peace and quiet.

Anywhere in Harding Co.: You really haven't explored S.D. until you've roamed our most northwesterly county. It is a blend of the badlands, Black Hills and shortgrass prairie. Buffalo, pop. 400, has all the amenities. You'll love it.

Twilight In The Gardens is Saturday evening


One of South Dakota's newest treasures is The Journey Museum at Rapid City. It was built a few years back as a crowning finale to the city's comeback from the devastating 1972 flood (in fact, the museum is near Rapid Creek near the floodplain). It has become the cultural capital of West River country.

Finances have been difficult and maybe always will be. In our work-a-holic culture, we just haven't made thinking places like museums a huge budget priority personally or cumulatively through our local governments. We like to spend money on things we can eat, ride, drink or re-sell soon. But the Journey survives.

This is another big weekend at the Journey. Sunday (May 22) is Big Rig Day. From noon to 4 p.m., the big parking lot will fill with ambulances, fire engines, drug dogs, helicopters, Jaguar from Ellsworth Air Force Base, and many more.

On Saturday evenintg (May 21), beginning at 5 p.m., "Twilight in the Gardens" will be celebrated. Master gardeners from the area will answer questions on gardening. Bring a sack supper, blanket (if it's cool) and chair and enjoy the beauty of the Journey's landscaped exterior.

We could use a dozen Journey's in South Dakota. But thankfully we have one.